Costal Hike

Today, along with my friend, I had signed up to hike with a local hiking group. We were hiking from Parkinson Creek to Botanical Beach on the west coast of the island. This is part of the Juan de Fuca trail that I hiked with my daughter three years ago. What a difference today hiking it with a light day pack instead of a 35lb pack!



As we started out I got my first glimpse of the ocean through the trees. We have had such hot dry weather that I was not surprised to see the fog bank out on the water, a common sight on hot days.



Upside down and upright "giraffes" frames the view.

 

Looking down along the coast we could see the waves crashing along the beach. The water had lovely huge smooth swells that would have made boating quite enjoyable as long as one wasn't prone to get sea sick. 

Looking down on the ocean swell and crashing waves.

 After following the trail for the first bit we decided to do 1km along the shoreline. It was flat  and an easy stretch with the tide quite low.




Looking down the shoreline  - an unmarked trail.

The Juan de Fuca trail is a wonderful coastal trail that people hike from all over the world. Some, like us this day, do a short 10 km section as a day hike where as others will camp in the five campsites along the way and take 3 or 4 days doing the full 47 kms. Although the trail is usually quite muddy throughout the whole year, with the dry weather we've had, what mud there was, was hard packed. Walking along logs and boardwalks to avoid the mud really wasn't necessary this time.


Thankfully the logs have all had their "tops" flattened to make easy hiking.

Thankfully the forests were still quite green and healthy and we came across some magnificent looking trees. Although quite common on the island they still bring a sense of awe to me when I look up at their majestic size.


A large cedar tree with huge root balls.

 

A huge leaning tree, sheltering the trail

 The streams that usually would have been flowing waterfalls were now just a trickle ending in small puddles along the trail.


Looking down from a bridge at the small stream

 

I was thankful to see that there was still some water in them, not only for the animals but for the overnight hikers who need these small streams to fill their water containers as they journey along. This is the driest summer I ever remember us having here on the island.

A tiny, tiny stream making it's way to the ocean.

There were eleven of us on the hike and as I only knew one of them, at times I found myself hiking alone with my thoughts, focusing on being thankful for all of creation. I enjoy hiking alone or with one other but for longer hikes a group makes more sense especially when you aren't hiking a loop trail. However, I miss the quiet of the forest when I am with a group and my friend quite agreed. The constant chatter of people while you're hiking doesn't allow you to hear the birds or the wind or even your own thoughts. On this trail you are constantly walking and climbing over tree roots so one also has to keep their eyes on the ground and I'm sure we missed some of the spectacular gifts in nature that surrounded us. We did however spy a hollowed out tree that had been struck by lightening. It stood in amongst the live trees of the forest, full of blackened holes.



The hollow tree

We were wonderfully surprised as we hiked past it to find a wonderful hummingbird carved by nature into it's side.



Even in death there is beauty.

Near the end of the hike my friend and I found ourselves alone on the forested trail. We could neither hear the folks ahead of us or behind us. For those few precious moments among the trees we stood still, soaking in the silence of nature.



In the silence

 

Among the trees

After hiking the ten kilometer trail we arrived at our destination - Botanical beach. As the tide was in we would not be able to explore the many wondeful pools of sea life. Instead, after a short break to soak in the beauty we carried on and hiked the last kilometer up to the car park where a driver would take us back to our vehicles.


Botanical beach at high tide

It was great day! The weather was perfect, warm but with a cool breeze off of the ocean, the trail, which you can usually find yourself ankle deep in mud was hard packed and dry, the veiws, wonderful even with the fog and the companionship of others made it fun.

I'm so thankful to live here on this island where we are blessed with trails, both along the ocean coastlines and through the forested lands, with huge mountains to climb for the energetic and valleys for others to explore. It really is an amazing place to be.

Generations

It’s the first week in July and here on the island there has been very little rain for the past few months – this following a winter with very little snow and no snow pack what so ever to speak of, has us reaching a stage four drought and there is nothing in the forecast to give us hope for it to improve. As I hike in the forests I notice that streams and waterfalls are nonexistent. They have dried up from lack of water.  It really is scary and I wonder what is to become of the plant and animal life that live here.  Although the ferns are still a deep dark green in the trees the moss and grass is so very brown and dry.



Ferns still green but rocks dry where a lovely waterfall used to be

I spent these past four days on the Sunshine Coast with my two daughters and granddaughter - a three generation road trip! It was the first time both my daughters and I have had a holiday together since they were children and my first time travelling with my granddaughter. Despite a couple of minor disagreements, which are always bound to happen as our roles change, we all had a really great time. It was wonderful to share past stories with my girls and to share new experiences with little Savannah as we welcome her into our “girl time” adventures. I found it interesting to watch and adapt to my new role in their lives. Still being their “Mom” but no longer in control or being needed as we toured the many places.

My daughters and granddaughter "on board" for our road trip

We travelled from Comox taking the two ferries, first to Powell River and then to Earl's Cove. As we left Saltery Bay, on the Powell River side of the the inlet and moved towards Earl’s Cove I was awed by the wonder and beauty of the mountains that surrounded me.  They were so large and had so many different shaped peaks. I always loved geography in school and was wishing I could remember more about the formation of mountains.



Beautiful Mountain range

I knew once returning home I would need to do some reading and research to satisfy my curiosity but in the meantime I would just enjoy and continue to be in awe. Along the inlet there were many little nooks and crannies that had me wishing I was on a smaller vessel so that I could go and explore and see what each one contained. I felt like I was out in the middle of nowhere really and was surprised upon arrival on how populated the coastal area actually is.

Ah how I would love to be hiking those hills.

On our second day the four of us hiked out to Skookumchuck (strong water) rapids in Egmont and it was wonderful to watch the formation of whirl pools during the ebb tide. At the trail head I was surprised to see a sign that said "Bakery 300 m" and sure enough there on the side of the trail in the trees was a lovely little bakery cafe. A treat would be waiting for us on our return.

A bakery cafe tucked into the forest

Each day, large amounts of water are forced through the narrows creating whitecaps or whirlpools especially during the high and low tide times. Thankfully we arrived a bit before it reached its lowest point and were able to sit and enjoy the solitude of nature before the many other hikers arrived. 



The rapids at low tide

Sadly there were no kayakers or sea life to be seen but we were glad to have made the journey and witness such an amazing event in nature. 

Three generations on a journey together

The next day we travelled to Porpoise Bay and spent the morning on the beach at the Provincial campground. The night before my daughter had noticed a forest fire on the hillside and as we sat there on the beach we looked across at the fire which was now covering a large forested area.  There are many fires burning in our province at this time but to be so close to one really brought home how dry it really is and how careful we all need to be in order to protect our forested lands. 

Fires burning across the inlet

We spent our last afternoon down in Gibson’s exploring the little fishing village that was the location of the Beachcombers TV program that I watched as a child growing up. It was very cool to see Molly’s Reach restaurant and the boat that was used in the show.  Of course the town has grown and is now a tourist town really, but still, it was pretty special to be there and remember the many years I watched the program with my Mom and Dad and sister, a whole generation past.

Good memories from "Beachcombers"

That evening we went to a little park just down the road to seethe small waterfalls there. Upon our arrival we noticed that there was a bear sighting sign posted but we didn't really think it would be anywhere close. We soon changed our minds and only wandered up a short ways to see the small waterfalls.



Our friend appears to be a little closer than we thought

I was surprised to find that there was water still flowing through the little creek.



I imagine during the rainy season this would be fully flowing

We packed up and headed home early the next morning, retracing our route back to Comox. I was so looking forward to seeing the mountain range again and the little coves along the way, however the fire had grown much larger in the night and the sky was full of smoke.

Ferry to Saltery Bay

The mountain tops although still beautiful were covered in a haze.



The haze over the mountains at Earl's Cove

It had me realizing how very precious this land of ours is. As I held my granddaughter in my arms and looked out at the huge forested mountains I thought of her and of future generations.  The forested lands are not as they once were before man logged them, but they have been replanted and are full of wild life and so important to our survival. We need to be responsible when out hiking and camping in the woods. Most forest fires are caused by man’s carelessness and with such hot dry weather we cannot afford to do things that can cause such drastic damage to our planet. Years from now I would like to think that my granddaughter may travel across the same water with her grandchild to see the Skookumchuck rapids and all the other wonderful inlets and lakes that the coastal land offers us.

The next generation

This land is a gift to all of us and during this hot dry weather that we are experiencing I hope that we can all take a little extra care and keep it safe for the little ones in our lives and many more future generations yet to come.  

Maple Mountain

Today was an awesome day and I finally was able to get out hiking again. The last time I went hiking it was with a group of 20 people up to the Genoa Bay bluffs. It was the first time in over a year that I hiked with a group. It was fast paced and no time to stop and enjoy nature or take pictures. I enjoyed the hike, but like the paddle, I found I really do enjoy hiking with a friend or alone even more. I have been wanting to hike some higher mountains here on the island and the safest route is to go with a group so I had given it a try. My aim has been to hike Mount Arrowsmith and a few others up in Strathcona Park but after today, I’m not so sure.

Maple Mountain has five hiking trails on it and I have completed most of them so today I chose to do a loop, something I had not done before - the Blue trail, down along the pink trail and back along the yellow trail.  I had not hiked to the end of the yellow trail and looked forward to seeing the views from there and wondered how difficult it would be.
The Blue trail took us on a steep trail up the mountain and through the forest although not to the summit.

 

 I had hiked it before and wanted to go and see the three crosses that are there are on a hillside over looking the ocean. 

Even though we weren't at the summit there were some beautiful views along the way.

 

The short piece of the pink trail took us quickly down to the yellow trail which then took us back to the car along the coast line. Although I love reaching great heights I really enjoyed hiking along the coast even more. The sound of the waves hitting the shore, the cooling breeze that blew off the waters and seeing the boats go by was very peaceful and lifted my spirits.

There were little purple flowers growing in the grass among the many rocks we had to climb over,

Beautiful arbutus trees were everywhere and in the trees, the ferns were green and lush, which in our very dry spring looked wonderful.

The trail is well marked with ribbons in the appropriate colour tied to the trees ( you can guess what song came to mind along the way)

and markers which certainly helped when parts of the trail went over dry grass covered rocks making the trail almost invisible. 

 
It was a great hike, but it did require us to go up and down the hillsides quite a few times, climbing up over large rocks and back down avoiding the loose pebbles on trail. By the time we headed back down the mountainside my knee was giving me some grief and I realized that I may not be physically fit enough to make it up a mountain like Mount Arrowsmith but there are other mountains here I am sure I can manage. I always felt that one needed to climb higher and higher and reach those summits to feel fulfilled from the wonderful moments of awe that the views mountaintops give to us. Today , however, I learned that creation is beautiful among the trees, along the shoreline and that hiking anywhere out in nature can spiritually uplift us.

Today’s hike covered 11.5 kilometers taking us five hours to complete. My body, although tired, feels great and I’m so thankful I had this opportunity to get out into creation and to just absorb all that surrounded me. It was a good day!

A Paddle to Remember

This morning over 30 of us met at Maple Bay Beach here in the Cowichan Valley. We were going to embark on a journey across the bay to Saltspring Island where we would share in a feast with others. It was part of the Cowichan 101 program that I have been taking part in over these past 10 months. I had no idea what to expect on this day but had awaited it with great anticipation and the weather and water were perfect. At the beach were two tribal canoes. Both of the same shape and dimensions, one though made of cedar wood and the other of fibreglass. It gets harder and harder to find the large cedar trees that are used to make the canoes and so some people now have them made out of fiberglass. Although the new fiberglass ones are lighter they are also easier to tip.

The canoe I would soon paddle in

These canoes are built to hold up to 18 people comfortably including the leader who sits at the back of the canoe and uses a longer paddle as a rudder to steer. As the one canoe was picking up some family members on its way most of us went in the fiberglass canoe. We ended up fitting 23 of us into it so a few had to sit in the middle of the benches and not paddle. Those folks were all very thankful for the “ride” over. We had two people in the front who were the pace setters and it was our job to paddle at the same time they did. It became quite obvious that this was very important because if you were to get out of rhythm your paddle would hit the person’s paddle in front or in behind of you and inevitably someone would get a bit wet. Our leader Fred, whose canoe we were paddling in, laughed at us at first and compared us to a six legged spider trying to cross the water, each leg moving at a different time but we did actually improve as the journey progressed.


My fellow paddlers with Fred in the back steering us safely across

As we paddled along on the hour journey he told us some of their creation stories of the land that we were passing by. The story of how Paddy’s Mile Stone came to be, the reason Mount Maxwell is shaped the way it is and how Octopus Point was created.

Indian legend has it that a ferocious sea monster called “Shuh-shu-cum” (Open Mouth) once lived at the tip of the point. He would lie with his snout out of the water and when anyone tried to pass close to the point he would open his mouth and suck in the canoe with its passengers. No one knew what to do about “Shuh-shu-cum” but one brave had heard of a man called “Sum-al-quatz” who lived on the mainland and was said to have the strength of a thousand men. The brave decided to seek out “Sum-al-quatz” to ask for his help so he paddled across to Burgoyne Bay and walked across Saltspring Island where he borrowed a canoe and paddled to the mainland.“Sum-al-quatz” agreed to help. He loaded a boulder into his sling and “let it fly”. But his aim was off and the boulder landed in Ladysmith. His second shot landed near Mayne Island. The third landed in Maple Bay and is now known as Paddy’s Milestone. “Sum-al-quatz” explained that he couldn’t get a good aim as Mount Maxwell (or “Hwmat’etsum” - Bent Over Place) was in the way.
They called to the mountain’s spirit and asked him to hunch down so that “Sum-al-quatz” could get a better aim. Mount Maxwell lay down on his belly and hunched his shoulders.
The next boulder cleared Mount Maxwell and hit “Shuh-shu-cum” on the snout. That put an end to “Shuh-shu-cum’s” snout and his sucking up of the canoes but it did not destroy him. He still lives in the deep waters and whenever you see swirls and eddies near Octopus Point you know that he is nearby.
(Peter Rusland “The Legend of Octopus Point” (interview with Simon Charlie) Cowichan News Leader November 15, 2000 p.3.)

He told us how they believe that everything on the earth has a spirit whether it be a person, animal or a tree. It was great to hear some their legends. As he finished he said that the legends may be a bit hard to believe but no harder than any other faith or other countries stories of creation are. I thought how very true. All people have some creation story from their heritage and they all require us to have a bit of imagination.

He sang us songs in his native tongue which we were able to join in and sing along with. It helped us to keep the beat with the paddling. He explained how when approaching other boats or the land they would sing their songs so that the people there would know who they were and that they were coming in friendship and not for war. We sang as we approached the beach at Burgoyne Bay on Saltspring Island. As I looked up I was amazed to see people standing out in the water. A few of them drumming and singing a welcoming song and others standing with trays full of fresh fruit. I was so deeply moved as we remained seated in the canoes as they greeted and welcomed us to their land. Most were caucasian people who had volunteered to provide the meal but some were from the tribal lands. As we left the canoe we pulled it way up on shore to prepare for the incoming tide. Then we enjoyed the delicious fruit from the trays offered to us.

The warmest welcome I have ever experienced

Up on the beach were tents and tables, cooking over an open fire was salmon, moose meat sausages and yams baking on racks and pots filled with crabs. This would be part of the feast that we would take part in. There were approximately a 100 people there to share in this gathering of both First Nations people and non First Nation people. The four men of the Cowichan Tribes drummed and sang songs of thanks, for creation, for the people and then a prayer song to bless the meal. 

Drummed songs of thanks while the food cooks

As we waited for the meal to be served folks visited, children played together on the sandy beach, an elder shared with us more stories and others taught us about the cedar and how they prepared it for weaving. I joined the ones learning about the cedar. They had cut it and peeled it from the cedar tree and soaked it in water to keep it soft and pliable. They then took it and cut it in wide strips. To then make even thinner strips, about a ¼ inch wide, they were using a leather cutter but in past days they had used their knives.

Cutting the cedar into strips

We were then shown how to part it and peel it into very thin, thin layers. 

The finished cedar strips ready for weaving

After four attempts I knew this was no job for me and returned to hear the stories being told around the fire. Learning to weave the cedar will come at another time.

Stories being shared

Plates were filled with food and the elders were served first as this is part of their traditions and a way to show respect for the elders of the tribe. The food was fantastic and such a huge selection of items to choose from. There were greens that were from wild plants that grew locally, salads of many kinds and all the food that had been cooked over the open fire.



The tables filled with delicous food!

I indulged in a lovely plate full. It was followed by desert which included fresh salmon berries that had been picked on the island.

My wonderful tasty lunch

After the meal, when everyone was fed, we gathered around the fire and the volunteers that had prepared our meal stood in a semi circle in front of the drummers. Words of thanks were spoken and sung. At this time the elders came down and went from person to person giving them hugs of thanks “Huy ch q'u” and the rest of us followed them. Approximately 60 people went and hugged each of the volunteers that had prepared our meal. Everyone spoke words of thanks and appreciation to each individual one. A beautiful moment with great connection between people who hours ago had been strangers but had come together to share in this experience of learning from those who were here before us. It was so heart warming and uplifting to experience such a sharing.

We then loaded ourselves back into our canoe, each taking turns, the back loading first and then up to the front. I had to say we must have looked pretty good pulling away from the beach. We had learned on our earlier journey across how to stay in time, how to focus and paddle as a team. We moved smoothly across the bay. The return trip had a bit of rougher weather on the way back but it gave us great fun to have waves coming at us from both the passing boats and the wind. An hour across and we were back to Maple Bay.

The George Family cedar canoe returning to Maple Bay

It had been seven hours of absolute delight. It was such an important and meaningful way to spend a day, learning from and connecting with those who were here first and who have such a deep respect for the land and all of its creatures. Years ago a huge injustice was done to these Cowichan “Quw'utsun” people. We came and tried to force our ways on them believing that it would give them a better life. What we needed to have done was to have listened to and learned from them. We can’t undo what we have done but now we can listen, now we can learn. This is our chance, our time to come together and make this valley a land of respect for all people. Huy ch q'u for this day. 

My "selfie" from the canoe

Learning About Cowichan

Today was an amazing day as I went with some people from the community to learn how the First Nations people cooked salmon over an open fire. We were met by a young First Nations man, Jared, who taught us about the salmon and how they used "iron wood" - wood from the ocean spray plant to cook them on. You had to find sticks that were strong and straight and split them down the middle to hold the salmon.They use this wood because it doesn't burn easily and can be used for many hours. It took hours to cook the salmon.

Jared with the salmon over the fire

While it cooked we took a walk and learned about different local plants that we could eat or make into tea or use for healing purposes. We sampled blackberry vine and rose petals and later had tea made from the blackberry branch. It was a lot like celery.

We heard stories of the past about the river and the salmon run that happens every year. We learned how the river is struggling with the lack of water we have had over the past few years. We experienced a drought like this one back in 1937 but back then the river was healthy and able to restore itself. Now with the wier at the lake and man made dikes the river is no longer able to work the way it was intended. Each year the salmon struggle to come up to spawn. The temperature of the water is not as cold as the salmon would like it to be and many don't survive.



Learning about the river

After the walk we returned and shared in a prayer that Jared offered to us through his drumming and singing. Jared had a stammer or stutter when he spoke English which would have been his first language but I noticed that when he spoke in the native language it easily flowed from him. I wonder if in someways he was meant to speak his native tongue and not our language.



The salmon is ready!

After the prayer we feasted on the salmon which was wonderful and salads that others had brought to share.

A wonderful lunch!!

These gatherings that happen each month are bringing us together in community. It is time we learn about the stories and ways of the people that were in this valley before we came. Their spirituality is a deep part of the way of their life. It is time we took up their ways in caring for the planet, having respect for the plant and animal life that surrounds us.

Long Weekend Adventures!

This past weekend was a holiday weekend here in Canada so I had three days with no work, no committments and nothing really I had to do. A few chores around the house but hey they could always wait.

So the first day a friend and I hopped on a ferry and went to one of the little islands off our of our island. We spent four hours hiking a fairly easy trail looking for caches. Geocaching is one of our "hobbies" and it gets us out on trails we normally would not find or know existed.

We met some friends along the way...smaller than us, slower than us but still enjoying all the amazing things that nature brings to our lives.

We found more than caches...we found some fantastic Arbutus trees. This one was especially fantastic looking so with a little help up I found myself a seat on its lowest branch...a little high for my comfort zone but it gave us a laugh to be up in the tree.

The views along the way weren't too bad either...we could look back at where we had come from across the water. It was a great day - 5 miles 21 caches found, laughter shared, nature admired.

The next day I took my parents up to see my daughter and her fiance. It was another wonderful day bringing three genereations together. My parents hadn't been up there for a year but a couple of hours on the road and we arrived in Comox at the north end of VI.

A stop along the way to stretch our legs and enjoy a hot beverage. The young folks weren't expecting us quite this early so a break was needed to postpone our arrival.

My soon to be son in law was fixing up an old 56 Chevy so he and Dad went for a ride. The young and the elderly sharing a fun adventure only guys can understand.

The last day of the weekend arrived and my daughter along with my 4 month old granddaughter decided to go for a short hike and explore a trail we had noticed but never travelled. It was another adventure for three generations to take part in.

The two legged, the carried and the four legged all heading out in the woods exploring all the wonders of nature. It was a hot day but thankfully it was cool in the trees.

We then came across a tunnel that we would have to travel through in order to reach the view site. It was dark and cool inside the tunnel and tempting to just stay there.

Less than an hour later we arrived at the bluff looking over Genoa Bay. We were blessed to find such a lovely view after such a short easy hike. We chatted and rested at the top and decided next time we must bring the rest of the family along. A family picnic was in order!

It was an absolutely fantastic weekend. Everything was so beautiful and as it came to an end I had nothing but thankfulness in my heart. So blessed to have had such a wonderful time. Friends, family, three generations in two different combinations on different days, time on two islands, two trails hiked, time spent surrounded in nature, a road trip and stories and laughter shared. Life can't get much better.